“Travel is not all romantic; in fact that’s fairly rare. Travel is hard and occasionally rewarding. It’s those rewarding occasions that make it romantic; it’s those hard days that teach things about yourself and the world.

A really hard day would have involved missing trains or botched reservations. It could have been much worse.”

Those are the opening and closing remarks of a wise man’s most recent account of his travel excursion around Europe - where there are peaceful sidewalks, friendly cabbies and scheduled destinations are actually reached.   Ahh, the good life.

Meanwhile, two young women found themselves patiently and excitedly waiting to get their boarding tickets in the Hong Kong airport when they first heard those three menacing words; “Ho Chi Minh?”  No, that’s not Chinese slang for some insult against travelers, rather, it was the first clue that maybe, just possibly, our travel agent had screwed up.  But, with only 40 minutes to literally run to our gate (which, by the way, was at the absolute furthermost possible gate from where we were) Kate and I decided to just figure it all out when we got there.  “Hey, its an adventure!  Let’s go!” we exclaimed as we raced down the airport corridors, knocking down the slow paced travelers and trying to avoid small children. 

Two hours later we land in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.  I had spent my 1 hour and 25 minute plane ride in the very last seat next to Chatty Rodger the Oil Man, while Kate was stuck in the middle row, middle seat, where at least she caught a few Zzzs.  As we stepped out of the airport we were hit with the humidity like a brick in the face.  Even at night, the humidity wasn’t kidding around.  Neither were the hundreds of people lined up, or seated, right outside the doors, waiting for either their loved ones or the show to start, not really sure which.  While we were trying to figure out how to get to our hotel, which was at least in the same city as where we had been sent (our agent may be a screw up, but at least he’s consistent!), we had about 4 taxi drivers surround us, forcing their ID badges in our face to prove their legitimacy and bargain for fares.  We finally picked a driver and though we had agreed on 300 Dong, we got stopped at the outside gate where a women, I swear in retrospect she was probably our driver’s sister, wouldn’t let us through without paying another 100 Dong.   Great, 20 minutes in the (wrong) city and we were already being ripped off!!

We finally pulled up to our hotel, complete with a gold Christmas tree glittering in the lobby, checked in, flopped down, a little too hard, our of mightaswellhavebeenapieceofwood beds and tried to make a plan.  All of our excitement for Hanoi, the fantasy destination, had to be put on a back burner.  We only had 3 days in Vietnam, and we were determined to make the best of the batch of lemons we were given…..

I feel like I should write something while things are fresh on my mind.  But really, my mind is more mush than fresh.  I am just happy at the prospect of spending more than 12 hours at home for the first time in 3 weeks.  I’m glad to not be sharing a camp cabin bathroom with 15 other women, and I’m thankful that I’m no longer typhoon stranded on an island with 2 slot machines per capita, and thrilled that being sent to the wrong city in Vietnam is now a story to be told instead of reality. 

So, imperialism, family visits and stupid travel agents will have to wait.  For now, its bed time!

Day six of the conference marathon.  I’m averaging about 3-4 hours of sleep a night.  The days are so non-stop that I often forget to drink anything.  It has been raining without release, but it has done nothing to dampen the spirits of the conferencees.  (yes, I just made up a new word I’m pretty sure) 

The IMA was an amazing success.  Over 100 grassroots organizations were present, 35 countries represented, with 69 voting delegates and a 15 person executive committee formed.  The chairperson is a personal friend of mine, a colleague and only 6 months older than me.  She is 27 years old and the chairperson of the world’s first International Migrant’s Alliance!  What an honor for her and a blessing for the body she will serve in!  Congratulations to Eni! 

With the founding of a new Alliance, especially one as historical and ground-breaking as this one, there is much to do.  The Constitution has to be written, revised, rewritten, voted on, discussed, re-voted on and adopted.  There are are resolutions to accept, committees to elect, issues to establish.  It could have been easy to get lost in the details.  I won’t lie, there were times that it the afternoon teetered on oblivion in nuances, but someone always drew the group back in to what was important; the first ever alliance of migrants worldwide.  All the details, suggestions, revisions and votes, led to an Alliance grounded and bound by the need to assert their rights, fight imperialist regimes that keep their nations in poverty and force migration, and find strength in solidarity.  There were moments that I couldn’t keep from tearing up.  I was privy to witness something so amazing, so beautiful.  Strength, determination, loyalty, determination.  Hope in its rawest form. 

“For many years, many have spoken on our behalf.  This time, we will speak for ourselves.” ~Eni Lestari.  I’m glad I was hear to listen.

I’m here at the beautiful Wu Kwai Sha YMCA Youth Village - surrounded by the mountains and water.  Everything out here is green.  And wet.  Its raining again, of course.  But everyone is excited, and indescribably busy, preparing to kick off our first conference tomorrow, the IMA, to be followed on the 17th by ILPS.  I’ll try and update as I can.  Since I’ve already given a brief overview of what IMA will be, browse this link to learn a little more about ILPS until I can update again!

Have I mentioned that one of the things Hong Kong does really well is holidays?  There are 12 statutory or public holidays throughout the year, though there are something like 23 celebrated holidays. (In Hong Kong, celebrated holidays warrant fireworks, festivals and/or parades.) Today was the Tuen Ng Festival, also known as the Dragon Boat Festival.  Apparently they race some boats with dragons on them, some guy beats a drum, and everyone cheers for a boat.  Or something like that. 

I chose to forgo standing in the masses of people, and to sleep in today - a rarity for me that I always enjoy.  When I woke up this morning, er, afternoon, I was beyond surprised and excited to find that it was sunny!!  We are full force in the rainy season here.  Sunday was the first day it hadn’t rained in 17 days.  17 straight days of rain.  Ridiculous.  And even though it didn’t rain yesterday, it was overcast and threatening all day.  So to wake up to sunshine this morning was a complete thrill.

I called up my friends Kate and Joe and we planned to meet out in their area, out in the New Territories in Sai Kung, for a short hike and an afternoon at the beach.  The hike wasn’t to strenuous, just muddy.  There were some incredible views of Sai Kung Bay and the three of us couldn’t get over the fact that there was sun.  Butterflies galore joined us on the hike.  Kate informed us that butterflies only come out when the air is clear.  After 17 ridiculous days of rain, the air was certainly clear.  And warm.  We have been feeling the draining effects of humidity for months now, but today was among the first of many warm days.  It felt great to be out enjoying it all. 

When we finally crest the last hill and descended down towards the beach, we were met with the overwhelming smell of ketchup.  As we walked onto the beach we joined Filipina groups enjoying a rare day off in addition to their regular rest day, old men grilling chicken wings and burgers, children flapping their floatie clad arms in glee, and teenagers blaring their radios.  Hong Kong boasts an absurd number of men in speedos.  They really take away from the beach scenery.  Which, aside from the scantily clothed Asian men, is breath-taking.  A beach surrounded by green mountains.  Beautiful.  That is, until you step up to the water and see that it is yellow.  Junk boats roaring beyond the shark-safety net emit tons of exhaust directly into the water with every trip to and from the harbour carrying the beach passengers.  We chose not to swim, but did cool our feet off for a little while in the water.  Then we laid out our blankets and sarongs and enjoyed the wine, bread and cheeses Joe had packed away for our beach adventure.  Our little dixie cups dug snugly in the sand to keep from tipping, we each turned to our respective books; Linguistic history for Joe, Stephen King for Kate and Nature Conservation for me.  It was a wonderfully relaxing afternoon. 

Trying to beat the setting sun, we packed up our belongings and went back the way we came, finding ourselves in the town square of Sai Kung for a wonderful dinner.  Our salads were incredible and hit the spot; fresh cucumbers, avocado, tender chicken, egg, spinach leaves, cherry tomatoes (which I picked out and piled on Joe’s plate) and a tasty, but not too heavy, honey-mustard-balsamic dressing.  The water they served was among the best I’ve ever tasted, with hints of mint, lemon and strawberries.  So refreshing.  After dinner we walked along the harbour looking for ice cream, which ironically could only be found in the 7-11. 

I didn’t see any dragons.  Or hear any drums.  Or cheer for a boat.  But I am am definitely a big fan of the Tuen Ng Festival holiday!!

 <— Sai Kung Harbour view along the hike

 <—- Trio Beach (please notice the little girl along the shore really excited about something)

17.  As in, in the course of my lifetime, I’ve had 17 room/suite/housemates.  17.  On Saturday, the number changes to 18.  Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome contestant Number 18! 

We are receiving three new volunteers at the Shelter, all Indonesians, to help with translating and case loads.  We are SO incredibly excited to be receiving more help - it could not come at a better time.  One of the volunteers will only be staying a couple of months, but as far as I know, the other two will be here for awhile.  And one of them, Vonnie, is my new roommate.  While I am excited to have some company around, and happy to share what little (did I mention my entire flat is maybe 350 sqft?) space I have, it is certainly going to be an adjustment.  I have lived on my own for 9 months now.  Living alone as a new experience for me, and one that, quite frankly, I have enjoyed very much.  I love that I can practically live in my PJs, that I can sing along with my ipod while doing dishes and not worry about the number of times I hit my snooze button bothering the person in the next room over.  At the same time, there are days that its really lonely.  Days that I need to come home and have someone to decompress with.  So it will be really nice to have someone who knows my job and will understand what a bad day means.  Pros or Cons - she’ll be here Saturday. 

I’d like to think that I have a pretty good track record with my roommates.  I keep in somewhat regular contact with more than half of the group, and 4 of them are people that I consider among my absolute closest and dearest friends in the world.  So I’m not worried about getting along with someone new.  At the same time, I’m not expecting a new best friend. 

But let me just say, 2 people, 350 sqft, and a 4 minute hot water heater, just sounds like the makings of some comedy sitcom.

This month, Hong Kong will host two major Human Rights conferences.  Our offices have been crazy for months preparing to help host these two events - coordinating everything from housing, to speakers, to food, to visa issues and more.  The conferences will be held back to back, and it promises to be an exhausting week.  But there is also a buzz of excitment, particularly over the first event. 

The International Migrants Alliance (IMA) will be holding its Founding Assembly June 14-16.  This is the “First-ever global alliance of grassroots associations, organizations, unions, networks and alliances of migrant workers, immigrants, refugees and displaced peoples.” (quote from the IMA email list) It will be a time for all of these organizations to gather for the first time and present the issues that affect Migrants worldwide, and offer solutions of how to unify and stand up for their rights.  This has the makings of a historical event, and I couldn’t be more excited to be a part of it all!  (see the post below for the most recent press release regarding the IMA event) 

 

“Now we will speak for ourselves”
Grassroots migrants set to launch global formation in June

“For many years, many have spoken on our behalf. This time, we will speak for ourselves.”

This was declared by Eni Lestari, spokesperson of the Asian Migrants Coordinating Body (AMCB-HK) as migrant workers in Hong Kong and in other countries gear up for the founding assembly of the International Migrants Alliance or IMA on June 15 and 16 in Hong Kong. Lestari is one of the lead convener’s of the IMA representing the Association of Indonesian Migrant Workers (ATKI) in Hong Kong.

Already 121 individuals from 97 organizations and 24 countries have confirmed their participation in this historic event.

Other conveners of IMA include the Turkish group called ATIK-Europe; Migrante-Canada, Migrante-Europe; Migrante International in the Philippines; May 1st Coalition for Immigrant Rights-USA; PhillForum-USA; and TENAGANITA  Malaysia.

Lestari relayed that the presence of a vibrant movement of migrant workers in Hong Kong played part in the decision to hold the IMA assembly in the said territory.

“Successful campaigns were launched by migrant workers in Hong Kong and the migrant movement here is considered as one of the biggest and most active in the world. Hong Kong is one of the focal points when it comes to the gravity of the migrants’ situation and migrants’ resistance,” she added.

There are about 250,000 migrant workers in Hong Kong and almost 90% of them are women working as domestic workers.

The upcoming assembly will be hosted by migrant organizations under the Asian Migrants Coordinating Body (AMCB-HK) as well as some NGOs in Hong Kong including the Asia Pacific Mission for Migrants (APMM), the Mission for Migrant Workers or MFMW and the Bethune House Migrant Women’s Refuge (BHMWR).

Meanwhile, Teresa Gutierrez of the May 1st Coalition in the USA relayed that the IMA was conceptualized due to the perceived need of creating a formation in the world that can represent people living and working in countries other than their home ones and create a common platform for them.

“To date, there are around 200 million migrant workers present almost every country in the world. They came mostly from countries beset with economic and political problems and they work in countries that are relatively well-developed. Despite the different countries of origin or sectors where they can be found, the common concerns on their situation in the host countries as well as with issues related to why they are forced to migrate exist,” she added.

Sixty per cent of the world’s migrants are to be found in developed regions. Most of the world’s migrants reside in Europe (64 million), Asia (53 million) and Northern America (44 million). Almost one of every 10 persons living in the more developed regions is a migrant.

Connie Bragas-Regalado of Migrante International in the Philippines mentioned that among the topics up for discussion in the founding assembly include issues on wage, remittance, the General Agreement on Trade in Services (GATS) Mode 4, the war on terror and its impacts to migrant workers, on undocumented migrants, on women and violence, health and HIV/AIDS and other far-reaching social costs of forced migration.

Renowned advocate for the rights of migrants and Right Livelihood Award recipient Dr. Irene Fernandez shall keynote the event.

Regalado said that some of the upcoming programs of the IMA as soon as it is established is on the coming second Global Forum on Migration and Development to be hosted by the Philippine government in October as well as the advancement for the recognition of domestic work as work and thus entitled to the rights of workers indicated in various international conventions.

“The GFMD is a clear example of how governments talk about migrants and migration without taking into serious account the sentiments of the workers themselves,” she added.
 
Regalado reported that participating organizations in the IMA are also making preparations to confront the coming GFMD in Manila. She said that they will make sure that the GFMD in Manila shall not only hear those speaking for migrants but the sentiments of the migrants themselves.

“The time for the grassroots migrants, immigrants, refugees and other displaced people has arrived. The IMA shall make sure that their voices will never be discounted again,” Regalado concluded

Friday I got invited into the secret world of Nepalese food.  I say secret because, well, for some reason, Hong Kong doesn’t like to recognize Nepalese workers, even when they try to open restaurants that serve really fantastic food.  Luckily, I know a guy who knows a guy, and Friday afternoon, I got invited in.  We walked along a few side streets, past no less than four 7-11s (this city has an unhealthy obsession), 2 buildings under construction and a tasty looking fruit stand, into a very normal looking apartment building.  We had to wait outside the front gate until some one who actually lived there went in.  We went up a few flights of stairs to what would appear to be a normal apartment. Had the door been closed, I’m sure there would have been a secret knock.  But they were expecting us (call ahead only) and the door was wide open, delicious smells wafting out into the open-aired hallway.  They led us past the crammed little kitchen, through the living room containing a cooler, a very large T.V., three tables with plastic chairs and a very cool paper lantern. We were shown into what was supposed to have been a bedroom, but had been converted into a “private dining room.”  A few minutes after we sat down, the owner/cook/waiter brought our silver platters to the table.  Rice, pork, sliced cucumbers, some potato-eggplant-curry mix, bok choy (the typical Asian greens), and this amazingly delectable yellow bean sauce called Doll.  For 30 HongKong Dollars (I’ll save you from having to look up the conversion, that’s $3.84 American) it was an all you can eat meal.  That’s right, never ending plates of Nepalese goodness.  Served by a man who calls everyone “Friend” and keeps a watchful eye on the door for anyone that doesn’t belong. 

The Nepalese restaurant has had to move a time or two.  Because the Nepalese can’t get a work permit in Hong Kong, they have to keep their cooking on the down low.  All the local Nepalese people know where to go, and if you find yourself befriending the right guy or gal, you will eventually find ourself at “Friend’s” place, dining on the best Doll Sauce this side of the Himalayas and never ending portions of pork, mutton, liver, and vegetables.  Its good to know the right people in this city.

I’ve been noticing recently the way that, not only are the systems in this country set up against the average domestic helper (DH), but are often quite hypocritical.  For instance:

*If a migrant worker participates in illegal work (this is classified as any work outside of the stated address on the employment contract) and reports it to Immigration, they are arrested.  If the employer asks (read “forces”) the DH to work illegally (this is very common, as the employer wants you to not only clean their house, but their mother’s house, their sister’s house and their cousin’s husband’s office) and they refuse, then report it to Immigration, they are told that there is no “evidence” and the case is dropped; though first a letter is sent to the employer, who then terminates the DH upon finding they have complained.  If an employer forces a DH into illegal work, they report it and Immigration believes the evidence, then an arrest is made.  Only, its the DH who is arrested and promptly deported, while the employer just moves on to the next worker. 

*If a DH’s passport has been confiscated and they report the matter to Immigration or the Labour Department, they are told to contact the police.  If the DH contacts the police and it is the employer who has confiscated the passport, and the DH is still employed by that employer, it is called a “domestic matter” over which the police have no control.  If they are no longer employed, the police cannot “force” the employer to relinquish the passport (even though it is a violation of Hong Kong and International law to confiscate another person’s personal documents).  If it is the employment agency who has confiscated the passport, the police will help, but grudgingly.  If an agency insists that the DH gave them the passport for safe keeping, the agency is automatically let off the hook with no chance at prosecution (guess how often agencies use that line!)  And to make matters worse, if a DH is caught on the street without their passport (because its been confiscated) it is deemed a “prosecutable offense” laden with fines and possible jail time.

*If a DH is underpaid and they report the matter to the Labour Department, the Labour Dept. will promptly send a letter of enquiry to the employer to clarify the matter.  Of course, the DH is immediately fired for snitching, the employment agency swoops in and ships the DH home before they even have the chance to claim their wages in arrears, which is their legal right as migrant workers in Hong Kong.  If the DH does not report the underpayment and are terminated for another reason and the case is taken to the Labour Department, the court doesn’t believe the DH was underpaid because why would anyone work that long and remain underpaid and not report it?  (hummm, could be cause they are afraid of being terminated, or because they are never made aware of their legal rights as migrants to report job abuse, or maybe even because they never even knew there was a legal minimum wage in Hong Kong in the first place!)

*If there is the off-chance that the court believes the DH that the employer had been underpaying their wages, denying rest days or some other contract violation, the DH is then asked to be a witness in a prosecution case against the employer.  But, these cases often take anywhere for 4-6 months, and a DH is not allowed by Hong Kong law to be employed while involved in a case (labour, immigration or criminal).  So how is the witness supposed to support themselves for 4-6 months, not to mention their family back home, while waiting to be a witness?  The government sure doesn’t provide any assistance!  Because no one ever pursues the chance to be a witness against the employer, cases are constantly dropped, and the government states that underpayment must not actually be a problem if no one is willing to take the stand. 

*Finally, just a personal pet peeve.  Why can the judge be 45 minutes late for a hearing, and everyone still has to stand and bow when he enters (in his white powered wig, I’m so not joking), but if anyone in the court is so much as 5 minutes late, the hearing is delayed or the judge reprimands them in front of the entire court. 

That is just a glimpse into what I, and nearly 300,000 migrant workers, deal with every day.  Injustice clothed with frilly terms like “worker’s rights” and “opportunity.”